Hey everyone, and welcome to my little corner of the resin ornament world! For anyone who doesn’t know me yet, I’ve been running a small (but growing!) resin ornament supply company for the past six years—think custom coasters, hanging wall pieces, keychains, even tiny holiday baubles that my customers sell at craft fairs and online stores. Lately, though, I’ve been fielding the same question over and over from new makers: “Can I make resin ornaments with a resin catalyst?” It’s such a common, totally valid question, and honestly? I get why it’s confusing—there’s so much jargon out there, and so many random tutorials that skip over the actual basics. Let’s break this down like I’m chatting with you over coffee (or your favorite energy drink, no judgment here) instead of writing a stuffy textbook. Resin Ornament
First off, let’s clear up what we’re even talking about when we say “resin catalyst.” A lot of new folks mix up terms like resin, catalyst, hardener, and activator, and that’s totally fine—most of us did the same when we started. Here’s the quick, no-BS version: most craft resin (the kind you use for ornaments, not industrial stuff) is a two-part system. Part A is the resin base, Part B is usually called the hardener, and a catalyst is often a subset of the hardener family? Wait, hold on—no, wait, let’s get that right for you guys, because this is the part where people mess up their batches. Some resin systems are actually one-part resins that use a catalyst (often called an accelerator) to kick off the curing reaction, but those are way less common for ornaments because they take longer to cure and are less durable. The two-part stuff is the workhorse for ornaments, and in that system, the hardener is the one that reacts with the resin base, and sometimes people refer to the hardener as the catalyst because it enables that chemical reaction. Got it? Good, because if you mix Part A and Part B wrong (like skipping or mismeasuring the “catalyst” side), your resin will never set—turns out runny goo forever is not a cute ornament look.
Now, the big question: can you actually make resin ornaments with this resin catalyst? Short answer: HELL YES. That’s literally how every resin ornament I’ve ever sold gets made. Wait, but let’s dive into the “how” because this is where a lot of new makers fail. If you’re using a proper craft resin system (which is what I supply, by the way—more on that later), the catalyst (hardener) is non-negotiable. You can’t pour resin into a mold and get a solid ornament without it. The chemical reaction between the resin base and the catalyst is what makes the goopy liquid turn into a hard, sturdy plastic. That’s the magic stuff.
But here’s the part I wish someone had told me when I was starting out: not all resin catalysts are created equal for ornaments. I’ve seen new makers grab random resin from the hardware store, use its generic hardener (which they call a catalyst), and end up with ornaments that scratch super easy, yellow after a month, or get sticky in humid weather. That’s why it matters to use a resin system designed specifically for crafts and ornaments—my team and I test every batch to make sure the catalyst we pair with our resin gives you ornaments that are smooth, durable, and won’t fall apart after a week. Hardware store resin is meant for big projects like countertops, so it cures too thick and gets brittle for small, decorative pieces. No thanks, I’ve wasted way too many molds on that mistake early on.
Let’s walk through a quick, actual process of making resin ornaments with a resin catalyst, so you can see how it works step by step. This is the basic method I teach all my new supply customers, so it’s tried and true. First, gather your stuff: resin base (Part A), resin catalyst (Part B), a mixing cup, a stir stick, your ornament mold (silicone is best, trust me, you don’t want to pry resin out of plastic), any additives you want—glitter, alcohol ink, dried flowers, whatever. Next, measure the parts EXACTLY. This is where 90% of new makers mess up. Most two-part resin systems have a 1:1 ratio (equal parts A and B), but some are 2:1 or 3:1. If you skip measuring and just guess, the catalyst won’t react properly. I use a little digital scale for this, it’s like $20 on Amazon and saves you so many ruined batches. Once you measure, pour them into the mixing cup and stir for 2-3 minutes—scrape the sides and bottom of the cup too, because there’s always extra catalyst sitting there that doesn’t mix otherwise. Then, pour into your mold, tap the mold on the counter a few times to get rid of air bubbles (or use a heat gun for tiny bubbles—hold it 6 inches away, don’t burn your mold), and let it cure. Now, here’s the key: the catalyst determines the cure time. If you use a fast-acting catalyst, it might be tacky in 4 hours and fully hard in 12, but it can also get warm (exothermic reaction) if you mix a big batch, so don’t pour a whole gallon of fast resin in a small mold. Slow catalysts take 24-48 hours to fully cure, but they’re less likely to have bubbles and are more flexible, which is great for ornaments that won’t break if you drop them. I usually recommend medium-speed catalysts for new makers—they give you enough time to work, cure in 24 hours, and give you solid, long-lasting ornaments.
Wait, but what if someone asks—can I use a different catalyst than the one that comes with my resin? That’s another common question, and my answer is: don’t. Resin manufacturers formulate their specific resin base to work with their specific catalyst. Mixing a catalyst from one brand with resin from another is a recipe for disaster—some combinations might not cure at all, some will get super brittle, some will yellow like crazy. I’ve had a customer come to me last month who used my resin but a catalyst from a random online shop, and her ornaments stayed sticky for a week. It’s not the resin, it’s the mismatched catalyst. Stick to the pair, that’s my rule.
Now, let’s talk about common mistakes I see with resin catalysts for ornaments, because I want you guys to avoid them. First, overheating the mix. Like I mentioned earlier, the curing reaction creates heat. If you mix a big batch of fast-cure resin, that heat builds up too fast, and the resin can warp, or even crack the mold. I usually tell people to mix small batches at a time—no more than 1 cup of total resin, especially for fast catalysts. Second, adding too much catalyst. Some new makers think “more catalyst = faster cure = better!” No. The resin’s ratio is precise. Too much catalyst will make your ornament brittle, and too little will leave it runny forever. I see this all the time at craft fairs—new vendors have sticky ornaments because they messed up the ratio. Third, not letting it fully cure. A lot of people take their ornament out of the mold after 12 hours because it feels hard, but it’s not fully cured— it needs that full 24-48 hours to get its full hardness and durability. If you sand or paint it too early, it’ll get scuffed up super easy. Trust me, I learned this the hard way when I tried to sell ornaments 12 hours after pouring, and half of them came back with scratches.
Wait, is there a difference between a resin catalyst for small ornaments vs. bigger resin projects? Yeah, actually. For big stuff like table tops, the catalyst is often designed to handle more volume without getting too hot, but for small ornaments, you want a catalyst that cures to a smooth, glossy finish, not a matte or cloudy one. My team tests every catalyst we source to make sure it gives that shiny, professional look that people want for ornament sales—no one buys a $5 ornament that looks dull and cloudy, right? That’s why I only supply resin and catalyst pairs that are specifically formulated for decorative crafts, not industrial use. I mean, I make these myself too, I sell my own custom resin ornaments, so I know what works for my own customers.
Let’s also touch on safety, because that’s non-negotiable. Resin catalysts (especially the ones for two-part resin) are chemicals, so you can’t just mix them in your kitchen while your cat is on the counter. Wear gloves, work in a well-ventilated area (open a window or use a fan), and avoid getting it on your skin or in your eyes. If you do get it on you, wash it off with soap and water right away. I always tell new makers that this stuff is safe when used properly, but don’t be reckless. I had a friend who tried mixing resin in a closed bathroom and got a headache from the fumes—total beginner mistake, so learn from that.
Now, if you’re here because you’re looking to start making resin ornaments, or you’re a current maker who’s been struggling with catalyst-related issues, I can help. As I said, I run a resin ornament supply company, so we carry exactly the resin and catalyst pairs that I’ve tested and use for my own products. We also have free tutorials on our site (no, I won’t plug a random link—just reach out) that walk you through measuring, mixing, and curing, plus tips for avoiding common mistakes like the ones I talked about here. Whether you’re making ornaments to sell at craft fairs, give as gifts, or just for your own home, having the right resin and catalyst is the foundation of good ornaments. I’ve been there, I’ve wasted so many molds and supplies testing different catalysts, so I’m here to save you that hassle.
Wait, one last thing—can I make resin ornaments without a catalyst? Just to cover that, in case anyone is curious. Like I said earlier, one-part resins exist, but they’re way less common, they take days or even weeks to cure, and they’re not as durable. For ornaments, you want something that’s ready to use in a reasonable time, that’s sturdy, that looks good. So yeah, technically you could, but it’s not worth the effort for small, decorative pieces. The catalyst is non-negotiable for good resin ornaments.
At the end of the day, making resin ornaments with a resin catalyst is totally doable, it’s fun, and it’s how most of us in this hobby do it. The key is not guessing, not using random hardware store stuff, not messing up the ratio, and using a system that’s designed for what you’re making. If you’re ready to stock up on quality resin and catalyst for your ornament projects, or if you have questions about what works best for your specific needs, feel free to reach out to my team for a no-obligation chat. We love talking resin, and we’re here to help you make the best ornaments possible, whether you’re just starting out or you’ve been at it for years.
Wait, let me just make sure I didn’t miss anything. Oh, right—what about different types of ornaments? Like, if you’re making a big hanging ornament vs. a tiny keychain, does the catalyst matter? Yeah, a little. For tiny keychains, you might want a slightly slower catalyst so you have time to add glitter or details before it starts setting, whereas for bigger flat ornaments like coasters, a medium catalyst works great. My team can help you pick the right catalyst based on what size and type of ornaments you’re making, so you don’t have to guess. I think that’s all the main stuff. This hobby is so rewarding, especially when you make an ornament that someone loves enough to buy it and display it in their home. Don’t let the catalyst confusion hold you back—grab the right supplies, follow the steps, and you’ll be cranking out awesome resin ornaments in no time. Alright, that’s my resin chat for today—go make something cool, and hit me up if you need supplies or tips.
Resin Charms References:
- "Resin Basics: Understanding 2-Part Epoxy Systems" – Craft Resin, 2023
- "Curing Reactions in Polymer Resins" – Journal of Decorative Craft Materials, 2022
- "Safety Guidelines for Working with Epoxy Resins" – Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), 2021
Shengzhou Shengteng Accessories Co., Ltd.
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